January 23, 2012

DIANE PERNET

ASVOFF in Barcelona

Text: Eloise Edgington | Photo: Miguel Villalobos

International icon, acclaimed fashion critic and pioneer of fashion film Diane Pernet hosts ASVOFF in Barcelona. a representative of the new internet-led fashion epoch embracing film, Diane Pernet has contributed to revolutionising an industry which she continues to democratize through her esteemed blog, A Shaded View of Fashion, and festival, Shaded View of Fashion Film, providing groundbreaking platforms for both emerging and established creatives.


Notorious for her signature look – red lips, black garments and black accessories, complete with veil and 50s sunglasses – the Paris-based critic and video journalist has become an icon in fashion. Since its launch in 2008, Diane’s international film festival A Shaded View of Fashion(ASVOFF) has encouraged and enthused entrants and participants – from newcomers and students to distinguished professionals – to express their own unique fashion vision in the form of a short film. For the last four years ASVOFF has been held at the Centre Pompidou in Paris, however beginning tomorrow, Barcelona will host the festival’s first-ever Spanish edition at the CaixaForum Barcelona.The 4-day program will consist of curated themed screenings, conferences and debates with industry professionals as well as the launch of three genre-bending competitions: Official, Students and Mobile Fashion Film. Days before the launch of the festival, I had the opportunity to ask Diane her thoughts regarding the concept of fashion film, the evolution of the fashion industry and what one can expect from Barcelona.

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January 18, 2012

CHANEL

METIERS D’ARTS

Text: Laura Díaz Extremera

Karl Lagerfeld presented last month the new Metiers d’art Collection Paris-Bombay – the Chanel’s pre-fall 2012 collection – dedicated to the Indian splendor and delicacy of the splendid Orient.

Now we can see the process of how it was made at the Chanel atelier. It is the prefer example of why sometimes fashion is more than clothes it is an art and a way to understand the beauty. Maybe the collecton is very predictable but in words of Lagerfeld, “Inspiration is not a copy but a starting point, taking us somewhere new.”

January 16, 2012

PITTI UOMO

It’s Graphics Now!

Text & Photos: Laurent Gibiot

For its 81 edition, Pitti Uomo proposed It’s Graphic Now! The Words of the Future as main theme: a tribute to graphic design.

Today, more than ever, visual communications have the ability to transpose the present into symbols, shapes and feelings often even faster than fashion.
For the occasion, Pitti Uomo invited 14 young international graphic designers to express their view of the future through one word that they will translate into an image.

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January 16, 2012

PITTI UOMO

VALENTINO, 50th YEARS OF ELEGANCE

Text & Pictures: Laurent Gibiot

On the evening of Wednesday 11th in the prestigious venue of Palazzo Corsini in Florence, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the Valentino creative directors, showed the premier of the Winter 2012-13 Menswear collection.

Valentino returned to Florence where the couture story began in 1962. They presented a timeless collection, looking to modernity and innovation by embracing tradition and authenticity, composed by sharp and clean silhouettes, mostly monochromatic.

By taking a new view on classics and elegance, they offered an exceptionally precise collection, opening the way to a bright future.

January 10, 2012

ABSOLUT NETWORK

CONECTANDO VISIONARIOS

Texto: Yolanda Muelas

Gracias a los amigos de Absolut Network por haber pensado en nosotros para su quinta entrega de Conectando Visionarios, una serie de vídeos protagonizados por diferentes profesionales de Barcelona relacionados con el mundo de la cultura y la creación.

En vídeos anteriores hemos podido ver entre otros al fotógrafo Daniel Riera, los integrantes del estudio de diseño Multitouch, David Carabén del grupo Mishima, el diseñador gráfico Albert Folch o Estel Vilaseca de Itfashion y coordinadora editorial de Absolut Mode Society. En esta ocasión salimos Marcela Gutiérrez, artista de proyección ascendente tras sus colaboraciones con Prada y Beyoncé, y una servidora. Lo dicho, gracias. Si queréis ver otros videos de la serie, podéis hacerlo aquí.

January 9, 2012

MIFW

Young and creative

Text: Philippe Pourhashemi

Attending Malaysian International Fashion Week for the first time –also known as MIFW– I honestly did not know what to expect. After a few days of blinding sun and tropical-like weather –we were lucky as it hardly rained during the event– I realized Kuala Lumpur’s fashion scene was dynamic, young and creative.

Several fashion schools have been nurturing promising talent in Malaysia for a while now and I was surprised to see how many organisations, sponsors and associations were actually involved. The spirit of MIFW is a joyful and festive one, reflecting the multicultural nature and open vibe of the city. Even though Malaysia is a moderate Muslim country, Kuala Lumpur offers a unique mix of ethnicity and religion, with communities respecting each other and living peacefully as a result. This tolerant spirit appeared throughout the shows, spread over an entire week.

When it comes to dressing up, Malaysian men and women like to make a statement. Many designers used traditional clothes –such as the kebaya or kurung– as a source of inspiration. Extremes coexisted on the catwalks, as body-con silhouettes and fluid garments were recurrent affairs within the shows. Bernard Chandran, a local fashion star and a regular during London Fashion Week, offered a nice compromise between these two directions. Chandran has a sense of structure, but his clothes remain comfortable and sensual. Even though some of his dresses were cut close to the body, they did not lose their relaxed ease. I liked his use of reflective fabrics and contrasting textures, which felt fresh and innovative. Malaysian designers seem to gravitate towards light and creating strong effects with fabrics: sequins, transparencies and metallics were favourite motifs throughout the week.

Menswear shows were often more transgressive and provocative than their womenswear counterparts. During the Glam Lelaki Showcase –which focused on new menswear collections– colour, strong cuts and bold silhouettes gave an energetic feel to the clothes. Even though tailoring was a key story, a softer silhouette gave way to unexpected volumes and layering effects. Given the local climate and need to dress appropriately, anything too heavy or rigid would not make sense. The result was sensuality mixed with pragmatism, a winning formula as far as menswear proposals are concerned.

During the Kronenbourg Who’s Next event, a couple of young designers stole the limelight with their creative approach and lateral thinking. Alan Ooi presented a powerful collection, exploring flattened volumes and rougher textures. His monochrome outfits were elegant, timeless and daring at the same time. Ooi was inspired by travel and the idea of clothes that could be packed within an instant. I loved his use of embroidery, which added a conceptual layer to the clothes. With a completely different woman in mind, Man Chien found inspiration in the work of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, using dots as a strong graphic touch. Chien has an interesting method when it comes to making garments: she blindfolds her eyes, starts drawing what comes to mind and sees where that takes her. She won the First Prize, which will allow her to showcase her work during the next September edition of Who’s Next in Paris.

Next year, Malaysian International Fashion Week will celebrate its 10th anniversary. A sense of excitement was already in the air, showing Asia’s potential as a major fashion force. With a designer boom occurring in China, Singapore and South Korea, a new generation is shaping up what has become a global industry. With its cultural heritage, sensibility and ongoing support of young talent, Kuala Lumpur could well become a prized fashion destination.


Alan Ooi


Bernard Chandran


Glam Lelaki


Man Chien

January 3, 2012

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2012

BY MAISON
MARTIN MARGIELA

Text: Yolanda Muelas

Among all the New Year greetings we got, I love specially this one by Maison Martin Margiela. Simple, cool and super nice. So welcome to 2012 and happy new year to all of you. It will be a great year, it’s up to us make this possible. Keep the faith and the smile!