Young and creative
Text: Philippe Pourhashemi
Attending Malaysian International Fashion Week for the first time –also known as MIFW– I honestly did not know what to expect. After a few days of blinding sun and tropical-like weather –we were lucky as it hardly rained during the event– I realized Kuala Lumpur’s fashion scene was dynamic, young and creative.
Several fashion schools have been nurturing promising talent in Malaysia for a while now and I was surprised to see how many organisations, sponsors and associations were actually involved. The spirit of MIFW is a joyful and festive one, reflecting the multicultural nature and open vibe of the city. Even though Malaysia is a moderate Muslim country, Kuala Lumpur offers a unique mix of ethnicity and religion, with communities respecting each other and living peacefully as a result. This tolerant spirit appeared throughout the shows, spread over an entire week.
When it comes to dressing up, Malaysian men and women like to make a statement. Many designers used traditional clothes –such as the kebaya or kurung– as a source of inspiration. Extremes coexisted on the catwalks, as body-con silhouettes and fluid garments were recurrent affairs within the shows. Bernard Chandran, a local fashion star and a regular during London Fashion Week, offered a nice compromise between these two directions. Chandran has a sense of structure, but his clothes remain comfortable and sensual. Even though some of his dresses were cut close to the body, they did not lose their relaxed ease. I liked his use of reflective fabrics and contrasting textures, which felt fresh and innovative. Malaysian designers seem to gravitate towards light and creating strong effects with fabrics: sequins, transparencies and metallics were favourite motifs throughout the week.
Menswear shows were often more transgressive and provocative than their womenswear counterparts. During the Glam Lelaki Showcase –which focused on new menswear collections– colour, strong cuts and bold silhouettes gave an energetic feel to the clothes. Even though tailoring was a key story, a softer silhouette gave way to unexpected volumes and layering effects. Given the local climate and need to dress appropriately, anything too heavy or rigid would not make sense. The result was sensuality mixed with pragmatism, a winning formula as far as menswear proposals are concerned.
During the Kronenbourg Who’s Next event, a couple of young designers stole the limelight with their creative approach and lateral thinking. Alan Ooi presented a powerful collection, exploring flattened volumes and rougher textures. His monochrome outfits were elegant, timeless and daring at the same time. Ooi was inspired by travel and the idea of clothes that could be packed within an instant. I loved his use of embroidery, which added a conceptual layer to the clothes. With a completely different woman in mind, Man Chien found inspiration in the work of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, using dots as a strong graphic touch. Chien has an interesting method when it comes to making garments: she blindfolds her eyes, starts drawing what comes to mind and sees where that takes her. She won the First Prize, which will allow her to showcase her work during the next September edition of Who’s Next in Paris.
Next year, Malaysian International Fashion Week will celebrate its 10th anniversary. A sense of excitement was already in the air, showing Asia’s potential as a major fashion force. With a designer boom occurring in China, Singapore and South Korea, a new generation is shaping up what has become a global industry. With its cultural heritage, sensibility and ongoing support of young talent, Kuala Lumpur could well become a prized fashion destination.
Alan Ooi
Bernard Chandran
Glam Lelaki
Man Chien
